How to Sew Thick Material and Multiple Layers of Fabric by TuffSew

Whether you sew because it’s your hobby or your livelihood, it’s important to continue to learn different concepts and techniques along the way. Sewing begins to be a challenge when you decide to start tackling multiple layers of material underneath your presser foot. After reading this article, you should be better suited to handle situations when you must sew thick materials.

First you need to ask yourself “What type of sewing machine am I working with?” This is extremely important because every sewing machine has its limitations. If you are using a regular household sewing machine, the following 3 tips will help you:

1)      Do you need all that additional layer lining? Probably not. Cut off the excess (especially for side seams) but make sure not to break the actual stitching.

2)      Use the largest size needle acceptable for your sewing machine. Usually a size 18 or 19 needle will allow you to penetrate the multiple layers more effectively.

3)      In situations when you are breaking needles –maybe you are sewing a strap for a purse- use the hand wheel alone. 

Those tips didn’t help? Still breaking needles? The problem is not you or your domestic sewing machine-it’s the capabilities of the machine. It’s time for you to start looking into more of an industrial grade sewing machine. Portable walking foot industrial strength sewing machines will stand a much better chance of completing your thick sewing projects. We recommend our TuffSew Straight Stitch machine, you can view it here http://www.tuffsew.com/straight-stitch-industrial-walking-foot-sewing-machine.

Walking foot industrial strength sewing machines will help you sew thicker fabrics because:

1)      You can use larger needles- up to 22 or 23

2)      There are “grips” on the walking foot and feed dogs, which help pull the heavy fabric through the sewing process

3)      You can use nylon thread and thicker weighted thread in general- giving the stitching in your final project much better strength and life duration

4)      More power- more RPM’s and torque equals better results when sewing heavy fabric

5)      More durability- all metal parts and cast iron construction will give you a machine that lasts much longer than plastic parts and construction

If you are interested in understanding more about sewing thicker materials, feel free to stop by our website at www.tuffsew.com.

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Seven Important Tips when Sewing Leather by TuffSew

Sewing with leather can be very difficult and unforgiving if you make any mistakes. Many people ask us for sewing tips when working with leather products. Here are seven basic suggestions which will help you when sewing a type of material unlike any other.

1)      Make sure and examine your leather before you actually mark out your pattern. Sometimes there may be a small hole or slight imperfection in the hide. You certainly do not want to get to the end of your project and then see a small tear in your new leather purse. Imperfections are normal because the hide was once on animals who lived in the wild where scarring is a normal occurrence.

2)      You can’t really pin leather-use pattern-weights. These weights will keep your material locked in place like a pin would. We recommend cutting leather with a sharp pair of heavy duty scissors or a sharp rotary cutter. That’s the safest way.  

3)      Use the correct sewing machine for your needs. A normal domestic sewing machine will sew lightweight garment leather. Usually you can sew up to 1/8” thickness on this domestic machine. Using a walking foot attachment or Teflon presser foot will help.

4)      If you’re sewing leather products over 1/8” thickness, you are going to need a sewing machine that can actually handle what you are trying to accomplish. Your best bet is a walking foot industrial sewing machine. We recommend our TuffSew Straight Stitch machine, you can view it here http://www.tuffsew.com/straight-stitch-industrial-walking-foot-sewing-machine.

5)      You need to use a size 20 or 22 needle to penetrate thick and coarse leather. A domestic sewing machine can only take up to a 19 needle. These special leather needles will be the difference in an “A+” result versus a “C” result.

6)      Make sure and use nylon weighted thread, not cotton. It’s stronger and will last much longer.

7)      Skipping stitches is always an issue when sewing leather. Why? Well, first off, are you using the correct sewing machine? Look at tip number 4 above. You might be encountering uneven bulk under the presser foot or seems coming together. Make sure you are using a brand new sharp size 22 needle with your built in walking foot sewing machine. The sharpness of the needle will penetrate properly, and the built-in motorized walking foot will help feed the fabric properly.

Remember, if you are sewing thick leather-look into a walking foot sewing machine. For more info on these machines, please read the following blog http://tuffsew.com/blog/?p=31.

If you are interested in understanding more about sewing with leather, feel free to stop by our website at www.tuffsew.com.